Leaving a little bit of me behind

It's the morning of my flight back to America. I'm fighting bittersweet emotions. I'm glad to be going home to the country and people that I love so much. But there's no way around it--I will miss Moscow. The Russian people have made this experience a once-in-a-lifetime one and I can't say enough about all of them. They are the part of Moscow I will miss the most.

I love Moscow.
I love the Russians.
I love Russia.
I hope that I will come back very soon.
And as corny as it sounds, I'm quite confident I am leaving a little bit of me behind here.

What more can I say?

And That's A Wrap!

"Every new beginning comes from some other beginning's end..." - Semisonic

Today I officially finished the last class of my undergraduate career. Forever. In Russia.

How did my life get to be this crazy?

We shook hands with Dr. Maleshenkov and accepted our certificates of completion at the end of class. We uploaded all of our final projects and hugged the Russian students. We finalized all of our travel information. And, just like that, it was over. I stood back and realized that today was not only the last day of the semester, but the last day of college for me. I guess I have officially become "an adult" (whatever that means). Hopefully, it won't demand any new requirements of my maturity.

I guess it also means that my time in Russia really is coming to a close. We will be in Saint Petersburg starting Sunday and, though it's my hope to squeeze in at least one more blog before I leave for America next week, I don't know that I'll be able to blog all that much from here on out.

So let me just say that this has been one incredible journey. With this trip, I finally got to do what I have always dreamed of doing and have successfully made every college goal. I love Russia, I love Russians, and I love the Russian language. As corny as this may sound, I'm so incredibly blessed to have experienced this trip and so incredibly grateful to everyone, both here and at home, who made this opportunity so wonderful. I can't explain all the emotions running through my head right now as I'm typing. It's a bittersweet mixture of melancholy, shock, and excitement. But mostly excitement. Many times I have fretted about my as-of-yet uncertain future, especially as graduation draws closer. But Mom reminded me that I thrive on uncertainty and looking back, I guess that's true. And that's good because right now, I'm facing nothing BUT uncertainty! And, you know, I do kind of like it...it leaves plenty of room for the future and the opportunities that brings (speaking of corny...)

So here's toasting to the end of an era, ending with a bang, and to welcoming a new beginning. I'm so excited for Saint Petersburg and for every other new adventure down the line. I know that it will be crazy, difficult, and amazing.

So, again, thank you...and that's a wrap!

The Last Lap

Usually when I visit a place, I like to find out a lot about it before I go so that I can know what I'm looking at. But during the last few months, I've discovered that one of my favorite things to do is explore. Just explore. This usually starts out with Miles picking a place that we don't know much, if anything, about. Whoever wants to--usually Shelli, Miles, me, and Maxime--joins us to see where it will wind up.

Last week, the four of us decided to go to Gorky Park after our class. With the days not getting dark until 9pm, we have more time and daylight for our adventures. Gorky Park is still pretty much shut down before the summer months and at first it seemed kind of desolate. The rides were sitting empty and there was nothing going on. The four of us walked along the riverbank and enjoyed the sunset (yeah, have I mentioned they're my favorite?). A few dancers were out dancing to some traditional Russian folk music and it was fun to watch them. Shelli commented that now she feels like she's in "real Russia."

The weather has finally let up and it has been absolutely beautiful during the past week. Although we've been very busy with the last lap of classes, we have been able to spend a good bit of time just exploring the city. No more museums or indoor activities, though--we want to be outside all the time now that we can! For me, it's really the last opportunity to. We leave for St. Petersburg this weekend! I can hardly believe it.

Now, I'm driving through the last lap and I'm so excited to finish our last class and spend my 22nd birthday in St. Petersburg!

Христос воскрес!

I didn't get to spend Easter Sunday in Moscow exactly as I anticipated. But it was still a wonderful holiday and a great weekend.

On Saturday, we finally made it into the Kremlin--something we've been trying to do for over a month now. Only the churches were open in anticipation of the Easter celebration, perhaps the biggest occasion in the Russian Orthodox Church, but the sunshine was so bright and warm, we didn't really want to be inside anyway. Instead, we stretched out along the steps of one of the cathedrals and just soaked it up.

On Easter Sunday, we made several attempts to get into various churches but were unsuccessful. So we spent some time in prayer and then went outside to enjoy the Day of the Resurrection in the park. I wish it had been more reverent (I really wish we'd gotten to a church) and more in remembrance of the reason for the day. But it was by no means a waste of a day. Miles and I had an extensive conversation on Christianity--it's always great for me to hear his perspective, especially since it's so different from mine. And being outside in the park with the bells ringing in celebration reminded me how blessed I am--in every way. And even if I didn't get to go to church, I took a moment to say thanks--I am so incredibly grateful.

Христос воскрес!

Angels, Bicycles, and Bright Red Jumpsuits

Another day well-wasted.

It was our first almost-sunny, almost-warm day in Moscow in what feels like forever and Miles, Maxime, and I took advantage of the almost-nice weather. We went to Izmailovsky Market again today in one last effort to load up on souvenirs to bring home. I've already blogged about that so I won't get into details about that. Afterwards, we went back to Vdnkh and there we rented bikes and cruised around the park to places we hadn't been able to see before. It was a great way to spend the day. Miles even unofficially initiated us into his "bike gang" the Angels and we rode in formation, barely managing to dodge pigeons and pedestrians along the way. In the process, Miles almost got us all involved in some sort of community-wide scavenger hunt. We didn't wind up participating but we did get red jumpsuits out of the deal! I think Shelli had more fun with mine when I brought it home than I did. She danced and cooked gretchka in it later that night.

Later, we strolled down the path behind our hostel with a few of our Russian friends discussing everything from soccer and beer to physics and the meaning of life.

Humor is the Universal Language

Last night, students from each of the departments at MSAU put on skits and made videos roasting their university and dissing each other's departments. A few of our Russian friends were in the skit and a few others were glad to have us tag along. Although we understood only a small percentage of the humor (whether it was because of language, cultural humorous nuances, or because of inside jokes about the school), it was a highly entertaining show.

We watched each group put on their show and naturally found some funnier than others. At first, I assumed it was merely because of the language barrier and we found those funniest that we could understand--that is, those that relied less on dialogue. But as it turns out, humor is a universal language. The best skits, even according to the Russians, were those that relied almost solely on physical antics, expressions, and one or two-line zingers. The audience interacted with the groups the same way as at home and certain departments had especially boisterous representation that laughed or cheered uproariously whenever they appeared. I could almost be at any event at home.

One thing seems to be the same in every language--poking fun at the human experience. That's something everyone gets--it's funny how so many things just don't need translation.

"A friend is someone who knows us and loves us anyway"

Shelli, Miles, and I have become pretty close over the last few months and we enjoy horsing around together, whether it's adventuring together or having utterly random and silly conversations. This evening Shelli and I were working on our Russian homework while Miles did...well, I'm not really sure what he was doing but he was around and we frequently pestered him for help when we got stuck. During a break from our studies, we decided to create our own dialect transliterating English words into Cyrillic. Shelli and I laughed hysterically at ourselves as we passed notes back and forth in our newly created writing form. Miles joined in for a while and then picked up a little reed recorder and began playing folk songs as we continued to amuse ourselves writing notes. As I wiped the tears of laughter from my eyes, I paused a moment and took a moment to appreciate the ridiculousness of the moment. Shelli and I, both on the verge of graduation, sitting here giggling like schoolgirls passing notes in a "secret" language and Miles in the background serenading us with a wooden recorder (and complaining that it didn't have an F). Yep, looks like all of us are hilariously odd. And I love it!

The more time we've spent together the more I've come to enjoy each member of our little family. Each of them challenges and enriches my life in unique ways. I've benefited so much from their companionship--they truly are like my family and I realized tonight as we were goofing off how much I will miss them when we return home, especially Miles and Shelli. But, hey, if we could all travel across an ocean to forge our friendship, we can continue it when we're back in the States. At least, I hope so. I really hope so.

To Life!

On Wednesday night, we celebrated Maksim's 22nd birthday in what was for me a very unique way. He rented a limo, provided some champagne, and drove a big group of us around Moscow. We stopped at several famous Moscow sights, including Red Square. There, those of us in heels found out that walking around on the cobblestones is really difficult! I walked right out of my heels at least once. Nevertheless, Red Square still remains one of my all-time favorite places, especially at night. And when you're celebrating with good friends, so much the better!

We got back around 5 o'clock that morning and then I met Inna for more Russian lessons. The reviewed vocabulary, not my strongest point. Russian grammar, although tightly structured, is difficult for me because I barely understand English grammar. But when we use it in practice as I do with Inna, it's a little easier so I'm extremely grateful for her help.

Other than that, it's been a busy week here. Our new energy management systems class is challenging and takes up a lot of time and we've been buckling down to work on homework and assignments. This means we've explored a little less this week but hopefully we'll make it to the Kremlin this weekend. It's crazy that it's April already--the time is absolutely flying! I guess that means I'd better get to work on that to-do list...

The Downhill Side

Yesterday, Miles, Shelli, and I took trip to the other end of Moscow to visit Moscow State University, one of the most prestigious universities in Russia. Unlike MSAU, whose central campus is small and comprised of only a few tightly-clustered buildings, MSU is a large, sprawling campus more in line of what we think of as major universities. As we were walking around, Shelli kept saying, "It's almost like being at LSU again!" Beautiful, ornate buildings, large park centers, and statues--tributes to the worker and to Lenin, of course. It was really beautiful.

At one point during the evening, we were walking around one of the parks and Miles brought out the Cuban cigar he had purchased at Vdnkh and we all shared a few puffs and mockingly toasted (can you toast with just a cigar?) Soviet education. As we walked around, we talked about our experience here, what we thought of Russia, and the meaning of life--a must when delving into deep discussion. I think for all of us, the campus created a strong awareness of where we are and just what exactly we are doing.

As we reflected, the conversation eventually led to the time we have remaining in Russia. We are into April now, which means we have just a little over a month left. It's hard to believe. I still feel in some ways like we just got here. The four-plus months we will have spent here is a wonderful amount of time because it's given us the opportunity to get an idea of what it feels like to live here. Yet, at the same time, it's not enough time to really delve into our lives here. Now, just about the time we're really settling into a lifestyle and making connections with the people here, we will have to leave. We all agreed we're just not ready to go. Now, of course, we still have over a month left. Maybe by the time it's over, we will be ready to leave--I know I certainly miss the people and many of the comforts of home and I'm looking forward to seeing them all again. But I have enjoyed my time here more than I can really say. And when it's over, I will go home, graduate, and face a very uncertain future. I will really be starting from scratch--and that's scary. That's probably part of my inclination to want to stay, too.

As we walked around MSU and then came home to enjoy a few drinks with some new Russian friends, all of this came to the forefront. We're on the downhill side of what has been a crazy, challenging, incredible semester. And despite the ups and down, I don't regret a second of it, in fact, I don't want it to end. There's just too much still to do with our time here. I guess we'd better get started...

пока!

Long Day

"You are in Russia, this is not like America. You cannot trust like maybe you can in America. And you are in Moscow, the center of Russia--you must be careful."

I don't like to think of Moscow this way. But I guess from now on, I will have to.

We have been warned almost constantly since we got here that we must be careful because we are American and things are different for us, we have to be extra watchful. And while we have certainly not disregarded those warnings by any means, over the last few months we have fallen so easily into our patterns and felt so comfortable in our surroundings and with the people we're with that the warnings have more or less, for me, fallen into the back of my brain. We go back and forth from our rooms to the classroom with little thought, we're in and out of each other's rooms with no problem. We're familiar with our hall and relaxed in our comfortable surroundings. I guess you could say that we have been lured into a false sense of security. Well, today Karlie and I paid the price for our complacency.

Today while we were in class giving presentations, someone came into our room and stole several items. Karlie came into the room after class and found it in a state of semi-disarray: random things were out of place, the wardrobe was open and clothes and boxes thrown around, Karlie's wallet was emptied out with coins scattered across the floor, and my sheaf of important information had been tossed aside. Nothing too serious (nothing was broken) but Karlie bore the brunt of the theft--her good camera, eReader and hard drive, and some money were stolen. My iPod which had been lying on my bed was stolen. Fortunately, our computers were in the classroom with us and I had by random chance kept my wallet with my documents with me today instead of leaving it in the room as usual. Fortunately, they didn't take any of our documents or credit cards, which was a relief. The frustrating, and disconcerting, part is that whoever took our stuff knew enough about us to know that we weren't in our rooms. Tonight, we were reminded that we cannot be so careless and that as Americans, we truly do stand out.

Although I would have appreciated a reminder that didn't result in today's kind of loss, I guess the truth is that it will help me remember to lock the door and double-check where I put my valuables in the future. It will make me remember to be more watchful.

But...I would rather it was a lesson I hadn't had to learn the hard way in the first place.

A riddle wrapped in a mystery...

It's probably no surprise that learning Russian is difficult. I love the language--how it sounds, it's structure (for the most part, they don't have to worry about 'is's', 'am's', and 'will's' etc.), and it's rhythm. In a lot of ways, it makes a lot more sense than English. For the most part, it stays within its own rules and, unlike German or English, its exceptions really are exceptions--meaning there are fewer exceptions than rules, like it's supposed to be! The hardest part about this experience is that because we only have Russian language once a week now and because our Russian friends are so good at English and because all of our classes are in English, there's surprisingly little opportunity to speak Russian--and we have run into few situations where it was absolutely necessary. Sign language, gesturing, pointing, and facial expressions go a long way, we've realized.

But recently for me, for whatever reason, my enthusiasm for learning it has increased dramatically. I think just being surrounded by it, I've come to recognize a lot of patterns and words just because of repetition. One of our Russian classmates, Inna, kindly offered to tutor me individually and that has contributed to my excitement. For the lessons, I decide what theme I want each to be--family, food, interests etc.--and she creates quizzes and dialogues for me based around those. At the end of each lesson, we read from a Russian fairy tale book I bought to improve my comprehension and pronunciation. I can tell that it has really helped and Inna is a wonderful, patient teacher.

Today at Sergiev Posad, I managed to have a conversation with a Russian guy. Though it probably broke every grammar rule in the book, I was delighted to be able to understand his questions about my education and where I was from. I was able to answer and even ask him a few of my own. Small steps maybe to most but bounds to me! I'm eager to continue lessons with Inna and to practice further--I have a feeling I will come away with the greatest knowledge because of her. Ludmilla, one of our language teachers, encourages me to continue Russian studies when I go home and I think I will follow her advice. The longer we stay here, the more I enjoy it and I have a feeling it will come in handy again in my future.

пока!

"It's snowing dippin' dots!"

In typical Russian fashion, spring has been elusive here in Moscow. There have been just enough warm days to raise hopes but it's far too hasty to call it spring yet. And as per Murphy's Law (or one of those...), the days that we venture out are usually the most miserable.

Last weekend, the Americans went to Catherine the Great's Palace in Moscow. Though it was on-again-off-again gray and damp, it didn't actually start snowing until we were on our way back to the metro--kudos, Moscow for that...The palace and grounds were absolutely beautiful, I guess a perk when you're royalty, huh? We never made it into the palace itself but we really didn't need to. It was great to just walk around and be outside amongst the cool architecture. Once it started to snow, we found the little cafe on the grounds and enjoyed some coffee and blini while overlooking the palace.

Today, we took a field trip to an extension office near Sergiev Posad, which is about an hour outside of Moscow. After we toured the extension office, we took a side trip to Sergiev Posad and I was able to attempt to recreate the pictures I lost when I lost my camera. Of course, it was gray and raining the whole time so I think they lost some of their effect. I was trying to be optimistic and say, "Hey, guys, it's raining! That MUST mean spring's coming, right?" We walked around a little bit, ducked into a coffee shop to dry off, and then came out to snow. They were small, round flakes that someone accurately compared to dippin' dots. I guess I spoke too soon. The weather really wasn't unbearable, at least it wasn't too cold, but what really topped off an otherwise pleasant day was the traffic jams we ran into on the way back. We have heard since we got here that Moscow traffic jams are awful and now we can say from first hand experience that we know this to be true. What should have been about an hour-long drive home took us over 4 hours thanks to 2 separate traffic jams. We were sitting on a bus in our damp clothes trying to make jokes about the experience but it was just a really long day. But at the very least, I'm glad I have pictures of the monastery to share now!

Moscow, please bring spring soon! Thanks in advance...

пока!

Catching a Moment

I feel it only fair to warn you that this blog post is completely personal and contains no insights into Russian culture whatsoever--so if you're still with me, thanks!

Many of you who know me well know that I am restless, maybe a bit of a wanderer. I like exploring places, learning new things, and moving on. I've spent most of my college career chasing purpose and trying to define what it means to "live life to the fullest." I think that's why I'm so keen on traveling. And while I certainly have not answered any questions yet, I was able to catch just a fleeting moment.

Last week was rough, emotionally and physically. I was sick and homesick and feeling like I was ready to quit. But this week has brought with it a surge of renewed vigor (unfortunately for some that means I've got my debating zest back--осторожно!). Between exploring more of the city, the change in weather, and getting to know the people here even better, I've really felt more content than I have in a while. Sure, I've still got wanderlust, I'm still bitten by the travel bug. But tonight I stopped on my way down the stairwell and I looked through the window out over the lit city. I was listening to "Free" by the Zac Brown Band on my iPod (one of my favorites) and I couldn't help but think, "I'm as free as I'll ever be, right now." I'm here, in a place I always imagined I wanted to get to but never thought I would, learning about a language and a culture I've always loved, doing things I've always wanted to do. And I paused for a moment looking over the city, thinking about purpose and living and feeling content. And, for just a fleeting but wonderful moment, I thought, damn, if this isn't living, I'm not sure what is...

Thinking of Home

The past few days have been a bit of a roller coaster for me.

It began earlier this week when Miles, Maxime and I went to the Moscow Zoo. It was great to have the opportunity to be outside in the fresh air and see the animals. I'll be honest and say that I'm over this Russian winter. Hearing about all the warm weather at home has made me miss it probably more than any other point on the trip so far. That's why I was especially glad to see horses in the zoo. In my limited international experiences, I'm always blessed because every time I start to get homesick, I always come across horses and it has been like a shot in the arm. A little sense of home away from home.

After the zoo, the three of us roamed around the surrounding city. We went into 2 of the Seven Sisters, identical steel towers erected under the direction of Stalin and famous landmarks of the city. One has been made into the famous Radisson Hotel, one of the grandest and most expensive in Europe. Under Miles' urging, we pretended like we could afford it and strode into the impressive, gold-decorated lobby like we belonged there. We even made it up to the restaurant at the top and got a sunset panoramic view of the city. We probably ticked off a few of the actual paying customers but, as Miles said, "You can't put a price on a view like this." Apparently you can: about 31,500 rubles (about $1,100) a night for the Executive Suite--breakfast included! Good thing I've always loved pretending...

The rest of the week has been filled with little adventures--museums and restaurants and night city treks--and a lot of class. The class we're currently taking (Agriculture Development) has been interesting as it challenges viewpoints and sparks debate--and if you know me at all you know I never shy from a good debate! The class sure has made me appreciate America even more than I did before. That has added to my homesickness and general droopiness lately--well that and yet another cold. We've been told the seven week mark is typically when the rubber hits the road mentally. And it seems to be holding true for our group. We're all settled into semi-routines and have adjusted enough to the Russian way of life to know what we do and do not like about it. I did get to go on a couple of runs this week--my first since I've been here and that was amazing. I've missed running here, normally my time to unwind and de-stress. Though they were by no means far or fast, they, along with the horses at the zoo, were just what the doctor ordered for my spirits. The other American girls have been great cheerleaders, too, offering pep talks and empathy as we all share similar thoughts on our experience.

Don't get me wrong, I'm still enjoying Russia immensely. But this week has forced me to take a little step back and acknowledge that I do miss home. I enjoy city life as well but not everything about it and that's OK. As this week draws to a close, though, I can honestly say that I feel rejuvenated for the week ahead. Spring really is in the air (all that blini on Maslenitsa worked!) and with a warm sun out, ice turning to slush, and grass poking through the melting snow, comes for me a renewed sense of excitement for our time here in Moscow. I'm well on my way to getting my adventure on again...and I'm excited to see where that will take me.

пока!

Maslenitsa Baby!

The past few days have been spent in what I consider to be an exploration into what I would categorize as the "ultimate Russian experience." From touring the Museum of the Revolution with Nadia, Miles, Maxime, and Katie McKee to celebrating Maslenitsa, the ancient Russian holiday to welcome spring today, I feel like we've really gotten a taste of the country.

Well, first off, let me start by saying we did actually go to the Starlite Dinner, a little piece of Americana not far from Christ the Savior Cathedral near Red Square. In the diner, decked out in American retro style, we could order burgers, milkshakes, fries, and breakfast at any time. I ordered a grapefruit soda and chicken wrap that were both delicious! Afterwards, Katie McKee and Shelli "stormed" the Kremlin--let's just say they get an A for effort.

On Saturday, a few of us went to Izmailovsky Market, a must-see if you ever are in Moscow. This market is about an hour plus metro ride but was well worth the trip. It's sort of like an American flea market, only classier. There are vendors selling nesting dolls (from the traditional flowery-haired girl to the rulers of Russia all the way back to Peter the Great and pictures of American sports teams), scarves, artwork, ornaments, hats, Soviet-era maps, and amber jewelry--to name a few. Vendors can speak to customers in Russian, English, Italian, German...whatever the situation calls for. Sure, there are a few chintzy souvenir stands geared towards tourists but the deeper you go into it, the more authentic the products became, and the cheaper. The hardest part was that every time I would stop just to admire someone's handiwork, the vendor would come over and want to show me. I don't know how many poor sellers pulled out all 10 pieces of a nesting doll for me just because I happened to pause a little. The craftsmanship on many was truly amazing. It was kind of hard to leave, actually, because there was just so much to see. Luckily, everyone agreed with me and I'm confident we will be going back before our stay is over.

Finally, today Katie McKee and I went to Red Square to attend a Maslentisa festival. The crowds were out in full force and between it and the market, I've seen more Americans in Moscow in the last two days than any other time. A big stage painted with bright yellow suns (the symbol of the holiday) hosted singers, storytellers, and gong-players. There were tables with straw dolls and sunflower wind catchers, drummers on high stands, clowns playing games, and carnival rides. Every other stand was selling blini in one of the many traditional ways to prepare it: with jam, with sweet cream, with jam AND sweet cream, with salmon, with caviar, with meat, with mushrooms, with meat AND mushrooms...you could find blini with just about anything. Gypsies dressed in brightly colored clothes danced, sang, and put on mini shows with characters dressed as bears and warriors. I had no idea what they were doing but it was fun to watch. The crowds were packed so tightly, I don't know how any of the performers managed to do anything! It was quite an experience. I'm confident that I got to see Maslenitsa in its fully glory. Now I'm curious how differently they celebrate the holiday in the provinces.

Oh, and fun fact, we saw peanut butter again yesterday in Moscow--for a paltry sum of $16 a jar. Oh, the things you take for granted, huh?

пока!

Blueberries In Any Season

One thing that I have come to appreciate about America since being on this trip is the variety of products that are offered in any typical grocery store. Not to say that we necessarily need an entire section devoted to types of toilet paper (hmm, do I like 2-ply, 4-ply or mega-ply?) like we do, but I do like having options. Particularly when it comes to options of quality.

Russian grocery stores, even the large ones, typically offer maybe one or two choices of a product such as toilet paper or tissues and these are liable to be more between color or brands rather than quality. Karlie bought one brand of toilet paper that advertised itself as "soft as a lamb" (or something like that, since we had to interpret based on pictures) and I bought a more generic brand. Though the lamb variety was about 10 rubles more, it was no better or softer than the other brand, it basically just had a different pattern. All of us have observed that everything is pretty cheaply made, the tissues I bought practically shred in my hands. Wrapping and packaging materials are of poor quality as well, tearing or falling apart with little effort.

When it comes to items such as fruit and vegetables, there is very little variation among the stores. One can find apples, bananas, grapes and citrus pretty easily but much beyond that is pretty rare. Readily available vegetables include mushrooms, peppers, potatoes, and tomatoes--but only in the big stores, the little neighborhood stores offer a pretty sparse vegetable selection. All of these can be bought at a premium. Sure, I know it's out of season but even so, similar products (certainly apples and potatoes at least) are widely and relatively inexpensively available at home. I believe that Russia imports a lot of its produce but even still, my occasional spoiled American mentality sometimes looks around and goes, "So...this is it, huh?" Even though in the States, I would pay more for produce that is imported and I don't usually find it necessary to eat blueberries in March (hey, don't put anything past me--I LOVE blueberries!), I never doubt that it will be available to me somewhere. And beyond blueberries, I can find kiwi, papaya, pomegranate, mango, cherries...basically, my options are limitless. And let's not even start on toilet paper, cereal, or shampoo!

Just a thought.

With a renewed appreciation for American grocery stores, пока!

Worth a thousand words..if only I could prove it

We got an early start this morning (ready to go before 10am? Who is this group?) to catch a train out of Moscow to Sergiyev Posad, a monastery about an hour and a half away. The train ride itself was an experience. It was not the nice, posh European trains that I have traveled on before, it was an old, dirty car similar to the metro with passengers sitting knee to knee. Throughout the entire trip, various people of all walks of life stood up to sell every kind of product imaginable. I saw someone selling magazines, cigarettes, eyeglasses, and demonic electronic stuffed animals. One shabbily dressed man who had no legs below the knee and no hands made some kind of verbal appeal and then shuffled down the aisle with his hat extended for coins. Both a dark-haired young boy playing the accordion and a middle-aged gentleman with a guitar serenaded the passengers at one point during the trip.

It was a cold, cold day but the monastery was well worth braving the weather (and the train ride). It is literally a fortress. According to Bolshoi Max, it was built in the 1400s, started by Ivan the Great and finished by Ivan the Terrible (Katie McKee pointed out, "You know, you don't hear much about Ivan the Mediocre") and it was impenetrable, even by a Polish force of 30,000 troops at one time. Once we entered the grand gate, we could see why--the walls were several meters thick and layered. Once inside, it opened to a beautiful community of churches, brightly-painted religious buildings, and gardens. Each building was unique and painted with vivid, wonderful colors, made more so by the snowy surroundings. There was a chapel (shrine?) for people to sample the famed "saint water," holy water that you can buy by the bottle. Inside many of the dimly-lit buildings was artwork: paintings of saints and biblical scenes stretched from floor to ceiling, gilded pillars and pictures and ornate metalwork added to the reverent scene. Miles looked around appreciatively and said, "Michelangelo gets a lot of credit for the Sistine Chapel but, if this were only a little brighter, it would be every bit as impressive." True statement, Miles.

Unfortunately, somewhere between leaving Sergiyev Posad and getting off the train home, I lost my camera. And with it, all of my pictures from today. I can’t express how aggravated this makes me, I hate losing things. And I really hate to not have it for the remainder of the trip. So, unfortunately, I guess you will have to google image the place since I now have no proof I was ever there…

A slightly sad пока from Moscow tonight...

No good title came to mind

It has been an interesting few days. Although we still haven't been exploring quite as much as usual due to the cold and most of us being under the weather to some degree, that has not stopped us from having some adventures, anyway.

On Wednesday of this week, Russia celebrated Men's Day, which is a holiday that gives tribute to men who served in the military. For us, this meant a day off from class and an opportunity to play laser tag at an arcade in downtown Moscow. Maksim and Anton took the Americans and French Maxime to play and we teamed up with a few Russians to win at least one game. My stealth skills need some work (the flashing red lights on my vest and gun didn't exactly help). Afterwards, Shelli and I went to get shawarma for the Russians and that almost ended up being a very bad night. Somewhere between the hostel and the shawarma stand, my purse fell open and all of my papers fell out--my passport, my hostel paper, my immigration form, my student ID. I realized this as Shelli was ordering the food and told her I was going to backtrack to try and find it. I walked the entire length of the sidewalk but couldn't find it so I returned to the stand. Shelli saw me and grabbed my arm, "Where were you?? I thought you got kidnapped or something!" I started to explain where I was when these 2 Russian guys dressed all in black came running up to me yelling. I had no idea what they were saying until one of them handed me all of my papers. I didn't know what to say, so all I said was, "Большое спасибо!" Crisis narrowly averted. And the Russians still got their shawarma.

On Thursday night while the American girls were getting food at the canteen, we met 2 Russian Special Forces soldiers, Alexei and Denis. They joined us for dinner and though they didn't speak English, they were able to tell us about how they served in Iraq and Afghanistan alongside American Special Forces. They were both extremely amusing. Alexei was celebrating his graduation so they brought out a bottle of champagne and we toasted with them. After, Alexei made each of us an origami flower out of napkins. Who said you need to know the language to communicate?

Last night, a large group of us went to an authentic Ukrainian restaurant a few metro stops down from the hostel, complete with colorful artwork, bright woven tapestries, and waitresses donning traditional flowered headdresses. We had a private room and ordered everything from boiled berries to horseradish, honey, and vodka (no better way to clear your sinuses, let me tell you). I split a dish of rabbit cooked in sour cream sauce with sauerkraut and sweet raspberry dumplings with Katie McKee, our newly-arrived, freshly doctorate-awarded professor. It was all absolutely delicious, made better by the setting and, of course, the company.

I'm still fighting some kind of derivative of a cold (I think I'm about as congested as is possible to be) so I hope that won't slow me down too much this weekend, though I don't know what's in store. Tomorrow we are planning on taking a little excursion outside of the city, which will be a nice change and I'm very much looking forward to it.

пока!

Statues and Sunsets

Not really sure what to blog about today. For some reason, I haven't been in the greatest of moods this past week. I think part of it is being cooped up because of the weather. It's been the longest stretch of bitter cold (although they tell us warm weather is coming--in the low 20s next week! woohoo!) we've really had since we've been here.

I was talking to Maksim about accents and how you can frequently tell where a person comes from based on their accent. Maksim told me that when he travels to Europe, he tries very hard to drop his accent because the general sentiment towards Russia is not very friendly. I found this interesting because though we are several years away from the "old Russia" that many feared, we really are not so far away at all. And, unfortunately for Russians, I think a Russian accent is about the hardest kind to lose.

Oh, and I am proud (and a little relieved) to notice that a few things in Russian have become second nature. They may be basic phrases but I figure that still counts for something! I struggle in class because I get hung up on the verb conjugations and gender construction but I realize that when we're out and about actually using the language in its "natural context" it comes much more easily to me. That's not to say it's easy, but it's more practical. Hopefully, with practice, the conjugations will start coming naturally, too.

Today, Miles, Maxime, and I went to some kind of statue garden. It's a garden filled with statues of the pre-Soviet era, if I remember correctly. Many of them are old religious statues that were taken down at one point or another during that reign. One portion of the garden was devoted to statues of the heads of various Soviet leaders. It was beautiful because we arrived around sundown and it started to snow lightly as we were walking around the snowy paths with these neat statues. I've officially become obsessed with Moscow sunsets. Maybe because of the perpetual winter and the smog but somehow the sunsets are incredibly vivid--I think a large portion of the pictures I've taken so far have been of sunsets.

OK, I know that is a random blog post today. But I am feeling a little better so I figured I'd post again (because the world really needs to hear more from me...). If I think of more interesting things to say, I will post a more cohesive blog.

пока!

Change of Tune

This evening, we were invited to an English-speaking club by some of our Russian friends (so we can practice our English?). It was a doomed mission from the start. It took us about an hour just to find the place and once we did, I strongly considered just walking the other way. It was a crooked door in the corner of an alley that led into a kind of auditorium/cafeteria. The crowd seemed to be made up mostly of Russians trying to practice English but Miles met a British guy and someone who spoke German. It was mostly just an awkward experience for us because we had no idea what was going on. Nadia, Karlie, and I took the earliest opportunity to get out of dodge.

No sooner did we make the metro back than did Maksim meet us and coax me into going back to the same station we had just come from to go to dinner. I almost didn't go because I was cold, wind-whipped, and tired but I agreed to go with him, Shelli, Katie, Katye, and Christina to a little cafe for dinner. It was another long trek but Maksim did eventually get us to a little basement restaurant set up with little tables and coaches surrounded by paintings. Soon after we arrived, we were joined by Roma and a new friend, Anton. He doesn't speak much English but seems like a lot of fun so we immediately encouraged him to come back. And, wonder of wonders, there was a piano! Everyone must have seen the longing glances I gave it because Miles asked the waitress if I was allowed to play it...and I was! I played everything I could remember. Admittedly, it's not as much as it could be but for my limited repertoire, I don't think I've ever had a more appreciative audience or setting. The waiters dimmed the lights as I started to play so that the entire room was lit mostly by candles, a few people made requests, and no matter what I played (or how poorly I played it), I received thunderous applause and cheers from my table. Katie told me that one of the waiters got out his lighter and was waving it while I played. I don't think I stopped smiling the entire rest of the night. Everyone was so complimentary and I appreciated their support and acknowledgement as I finished. I hope to be able to play again but if not, I think that tonight will be one concert that I will remember for a long time. As I sat down, Maksim grinned at me and said, "I knew this place had a piano the whole time, that's why we tried so hard to find it."

Thanks, Maksim. You have no idea the gift you gave me tonight.

Frustrated

I feel like I need to vent a little bit so I apologize in advance if this blog comes across too negative or disorganized.

Up until this point, I really haven't had any issues with Russians or trying to shop with my extremely limited vocabulary. Probably because we are usually accompanied by our friendly classmates-turned-translators. But recently we have begun venturing out on our own. This really hasn't been a problem, either. Between the few words or phrases we know, some strange form of sign language, and a lot of pointing, we make due. What really has been the point of frustration for me lately is the feeling of...contempt, maybe? I have sensed from the Russians we have encountered at stores or restaurants. Contempt is probably too strong of a word. Miles and I were discussing this as we were coming back from downtown Moscow. He doesn't get the vibe as strongly as I do (maybe I'm just reading too much into it) but has encountered it a little.

In the major centers of the city, most restaurants offer English menus and many of the stores have English text under the signs (if not strictly English signs). And yet I'm surprised, whether I should be or not, by the limited ability we have to ask for help or understand directions. Most of the staff seem to know just a little English, if any, and I get a sense that our ignorance and perhaps even mere presence is annoying. This might just be a wrong impression or a stereotype but I can't help but feel a little awkward or dumb when I stand there unable to communicate. It's made worse by the fact that every time I fail to communicate or understand, I feel like the Russians talk to each other about it. I suppose in the same situation in America, I would expect nothing less, either. Maybe foreigners are merely a curiosity, if not a slight frustration, to workers in general.

Yesterday, I went to the grocery store and when I went to pay, the cashier tried to tell me to pay with some small change I had to make it even. It took me a while to get what she was saying (and I only did because I was rescued by Nadia) and as she handed me my change, she turned to the other cashier and started laughing and talking as she glanced at me. Maybe it had nothing to do with me, but I couldn't help feeling a little irritated as I left. It's times like these that I really wish I knew Russian fluently. I know that not all Russians behave in this manner, but I know that it has happened on more than one occasion because I can tell by the expression in our translators' faces that something perhaps less-than-friendly is being said. Obviously, there's nothing I can do about it.

But it's frustrating.

Yay for double post days!

So I'm sure nobody wants to hear from me twice in one day but I just had to finish the day off with an update.

So it turned out to be one of the best Valentine's Days I've had in a long time. The rumors of a home-cooked meal were, in fact, just rumors because our would-be cooks didn't get back until late. Maksim came over and gave each of the American girls valentines and took us to dinner at a sports bar place not far from our hostel. We got some universal feel-good food (French fries and club sandwiches) accompanied by some classic French wine. We joked that Maksim got to have 5 dates in one night-good even for a Russian! We bowled and ate and danced like fools and were really loud when we got really good or really bad scores. It was a lot of fun and I didn't even mind everyone making fun of my "aggressive bowling style" or the fact that I came in last place. Yeah, bowling's not my thing but that's OK because the night was so much fun. I loved getting to celebrate with my Russian-American-French family!

пока!

Valentine's Day in Russia

I don't know why I was surprised to find out that Valentine's Day is a very big day in Russia (maybe I just hoped that Hallmark had somehow overlooked this country. It's so hard to miss, you know...). Apparently, it's even crazier for Russian young adults because their view on and approach to relationships is much different than ours in America, or for most people in America.

Russians tend not to be exclusive when entering into romantic relationships. This was first pointed out to me by writer Berdy and I have seen it played out among our friends here. Several of the Russians are in "open relationships" with more than one significant other. Sure, this sounds appealing in one sense and as a Russian guy, it even almost makes sense. All the Russian women are beautiful so how could you choose just one? But on a day like this it just sounds exhausting! Trying to keep up with one person is hard enough, let alone more than one. But maybe I'm just jealous...

I've noticed in general that Russians are very effervescent and friendly towards each other and their guests. I've already commented on their manners and chivalrous behavior towards us but it goes even beyond that. A few times we've had drinks with them and it doesn't matter who we are, who they are, or how much we understand each other (which oftentimes is not very much), they always want us to have a good time. "Russians never drink alone," Maksim told us as he poured us some wine. They are quick to engage us in conversation and offer food or drink before we're even done with the first round. And Russian men and women, whether or not they are dating, are very tactile-playing with each other's hair, casually slinging their arms around each other, and kissing familiarly on the head and cheek. I was a little taken aback by this behavior at first (and I still am a little) because it is very different from what I am used to. I have a very strict "personal space" policy that doesn't quite mesh with theirs.

Valentine's Day here has been very quiet so far. Miles, French Maxime, and I attempted to go to the Gulag Museum and the Museum of the Revolution (what better way to celebrate the feast day of love?) but wound up only managing to go to another Russian bookstore to browse. I really wish I knew more Russian...Later, there are rumors of one of the American girls (not me!) whipping up a dinner for the occasion but we'll have to see if that's true.

Anyway, Happy Valentine's Day, with whomever and however you celebrate it!

пока!

Big Mac Moment of Weakness

So I have to confess to a very un-Russian, all-American moment of weakness yesterday. Katie, Karlie, and I were all hanging around the hostel and noticed that our diets have consisted almost entirely of carbs. I for one was craving a big hunk of meat (hi, my name's Marie and I am a carnivore...) and a little taste of America. So we decided to go to a Russian McDonald's for "the full Russian experience" as one of my friends quipped. A happy meal and a coke? Yes, please! Better than all of those carbs, for sure...

I think we made up for our un-Russian evening today, though. Maksim came over this morning to supervise making blinis, a dish so Russian that it has its own national day! It's called Масленица and to my understanding it is a celebration roughly equivalent to Mardi Gras. Just add some jam and sweet milk and we were in business, Russian-style! Tonight, Miles made our group another traditional Russian dish: borsch. This cabbage, beet, and carrot-based soup is surprisingly filling. Between the 2 dishes, I felt that we counteracted our American moment of weakness. And, really, the Russians like McDonald's as much as we do, though they seem to think that it is the sole restaurant that defines the US.

Between the two days of food, if I continue to eat this way, I'll probably wind up being the size of a house. And next to all of the tall, thin, beautiful Russian women, too...hmm, salads from now on, anyone?

пока!

Fun fact!

Oh, and I forgot to include this fun fact in my last post-I may have mentioned already that Moscow has a lot of stray dogs running around the city. They are pretty tame for the most part in the sense that they do not chase after people or act aggressively (disclaimer: we never attempt to pet them). But apparently these "smartest dogs" will ride the metro from place to place! I find this hilarious and impressive-sometimes I don't know how HUMANS navigate the metro system! But these dogs do and everyone seems totally fine with it. I haven't seen any on the metro itself but I have seen them sleeping in the stations.

Anyway, I just found this random fact interesting and wanted to make sure I mentioned it.

пока!

"We ain't in Kansas anymore"

So, it has been an interesting trip so far, to be sure. And it has already been bookended to this point by some pretty dramatic events.

The day before most of us flew into the country, Domodedovo airport was bombed by terrorists. We were not flying into that airport but supposedly the bombing was meant to target foreigners. It didn't affect our trip at all but certainly made for an interesting welcome to Russia.

This morning in class, Dr. Malashankov informed us that the French-American students were grounded to the hostel because of riots in the center of Moscow. I'm not entirely sure what the riots are for right now, although it is my understanding that they are some sort of protest against foreigners. They are nowhere near our hostel but the idea of being restricted because of unfriendly political activity is intriguing.

Last night, we were heading home to the hostel and we were stopped by the Russian police. We were told to expect this because they are allowed to stop anyone at any time and require identification. I was sort of surprised it hasn't happened sooner, we're not exactly inconspicuous when we go out. We just handed them our passport and papers, our Russian friends bribed them a little, and everything was fine. Certainly a new and unusual experience and much different than the type of system we are used to dealing with. Russian justice is its own unique brand. As Dorothy might say, "I don't think we're in Kansas anymore..."

No, we most certainly are not.

Russian School

We all got a case of the hyper giggles today after our visit to the school. The energy from the students apparently transferred to us when we left because we were all hopping around and babbling in Runglish. I'll have to admit, I was incredibly apprehensive about the whole thing. Working with children in English scares me enough! But I actually ended up having a great time. The Russian students all spoke excellent English and were eager to practice so they were very friendly. The two girls I sat with asked me all kinds of questions about music, movies, and my life in Moscow. Then they asked me eagerly, "So what do you want to learn?" So I got to ask them all kinds of phrases and slang terms. They told me my pronunciation was good, which made me feel good. I ended up having a really good time and I think that I will wind up learning a lot of Russian from my interactions with them in the future.

пока!

Family Dinner and Дом Книги

The American girls were brave the other night and ventured to the Moscow-equivalent of a Wal-Mart all by ourselves! We didn't have any Russians to help us translate and, surprisingly, we all made out just fine. We're learning to navigate the city (especially the metro-if nothing else, we'll be experts in that lingo). Probably my biggest goal is to be able to get around the grocery stores or markets and be familiar with the vocabulary and phrases. We picked up some food for dinner and when Maksim and Bolshoi Max heard that Shelli was cooking dinner, they both said, "Shelli's cooking? We'll stay!" Shelli whipped up potatoes and Russian pork with green beans and fresh bread. It turned into another great international family dinner.

Yesterday we got to tour the departments of the university and get a glimpse into the studies of the many Russian students. I don't remember the specifics about the programs but MSAU specifically has partnerships with certain agriculture-based companies (such as John Deere) that provide training to the students on their equipment, ultimately providing future career opportunities. We got to tour the military department where we learned a little about the Russian occupation in World War II, or the Great Patriotic War as they refer to it. On the walls were pictures of veterans and generals, including a prominent picture of Stalin. It's interesting to get a glimpse of history from the Russian perspective, particularly such prominent figures as Stalin and Lenin. Here they are revered (at least in public forms) whereas our history has a much different view.

In addition to the school tour, Karlie, Miles, Maxim (the French edition) and I went to Arbatskaya-one of the major centers in Moscow-to find the Дом Книги, a mega bookstore in Moscow that has books in English. I bought a book of Russian fables written in Cyrillic. Optimistic? Maybe, but I hope that it will improve my vocabulary as well as my reading. It's probably a bit of a stretch to think I'll be able to read it with any kind of fluency by the time we leave but I'm going to give it a shot!

The weather today was particularly Russia-esque, that is to say...the type of Russia I was expecting before we left. It was gray and snowy all day, although not very cold until we got back to the hostel. I noticed as we were trekking around in the winter wonderland that for a city the size and significance of Moscow that should be used to this kind of weather, it's surprisingly ill-equipped to handle the slush and snow. The city had been described to me as dirty and up until this point, I hadn't really seen it. But the slush and melted snow leave everything a mess. The stairs to the metro are slick and the sidewalks are slushy and full of puddles or sheets of ice. Cars kick up the brown slush and cover the lines in the road. I would have thought that the city would have perfected some kind of system for handling this kind of thing, seeing as how they experience it a great portion of the year...

Today, we're going to a Russian high school to observe Russian students learning English, possibly to help them later in the semester. And....Maksim has arranged for me to be able to play the piano! I wish I had thought to prepare something but just being able to play will be wonderful! It seems like it's been a long time, even though this trip has already flown by.

Well, it's still early in the day so I may post later, depending on how the day unfolds. I feel like there's so much more to say!

пока!

The City At Night

Went on another exploration last night.

We took the metro to downtown Moscow and got to see the city center at night. We went into a shop that had everything from tea, fresh breads, and ice cream to wine, honey and souvenirs. I even saw peanut butter, although it has been practically nonexistent in any other part of the city. It was no Jiff and at a premium of about $9.00 but it does in fact exist in Russia. Probably from all of the Americans complaining about how we can't make our PBJ's (which we have all determined is one of the quintessential all-American foods). Afterwards, we found our way to a Japanese sushi bar. I've been telling people that I had a Mexican quesadilla and Italian wine in a Japanese sushi bar in Moscow, Russia with my French and American friends. I know, clever, right? The gentleman at the door who takes people's coats was frustrated because I hung my coat over the back of the chair and it kept dragging on the floor. This is apparently a big no-no for Russians and he came over and adjusted it a couple different times.

Next, we went to Red Square so that Katie could see it. I've decided that Red Square at night is much more beautiful than during the day. All of the buildings--the Kremlin, St. Basil's, the skating rink etc.--are all lit up and there's just a very cool atmosphere about the place.

Today, Vera told us that Red Square is named because in ancient Russia, red meant beautiful. And it really is. One of the amazing things about being there to me is how much history is there. Not only ancient history but recent history. The commemoration of Lenin is everywhere around Moscow but especially in Red Square. Maksim said that many people think it is called that for all the blood that has been spilled there over history. "It's not why it was named Red Square," he said, "but it is true." Hopefully, one of our upcoming adventures will be to a museum where we can learn more about the history of the place in which we live.

I feel like I have a lot more to say about it but can't think of anything else right now. For now, we are having class with the Russians and the French so I'm going to sign off.

пока!

"When everybody else is gettin' out of bed I'm usually gettin' in it..."

All-nighter last night, Russian style!

A big group of us decided to go to downtown Moscow near Red Square last night. However, our hostel does not allow anyone to enter or re-enter the building after 1am. So...that meant that we had to stay out all night until 6am, when the hostel reopened. Right away, it promised to be an interesting night.

We took the metro to Red Square and got to see it all lit up at night, which in of itself was worth the trip. The club we went to was right on the edge of Red Square and appeared to cater to a tourist-based crowd because most of the menu was in English as well as Russian. The music, too, was mostly American music, circa 1980s and early 90s maybe? And, luckily for me, Russians don't know how to dance any better than Americans so they did not expect any sick dance moves a la Michael Jackson or anything. One of the guys, Valera, was hysterical on the dance floor and I enjoyed letting him steal the spotlight (I know, big of me, right?). We literally danced the night away and then found an all-night coffee shop around 4am or so to wait for the metro to start running again and the hostel to reopen. By that time, not even a cup of real coffee could entice me to stay awake. By the time we made it back to our rooms around 6:30am, I think I fell asleep before Karlie even lay down. I woke up around 1pm this afternoon, completely disrupting the regular sleep pattern I finally established. It was a fun night and definitely something to say I experienced. However, I can't say it's something I'll be in a hurry to do again. Turns out, I'm a big fan of sleep.

On another note, I asked Maksim this morning if the Russians ever watch the Superbowl (I didn't even care that I was living out the American football-loving stereotype). He looked at me and said, "The what?" So...it looks like I will have to root for my team from afar. Hey, what can I say-I'm a devoted fan!

пока!

Be Careful What You Wish For

Well, I got what I wished for, if not quite what I was anticipating.

Tonight, Shelli decided to be awesome and cook the American girls and Bolshoi Max and Maksim a chicken and dumpling dinner. Bolshoi Max agreed to drive Katie, Karlie, and I to a nearby grocery store to pick up a few ingredients. Simple enough, we thought. What we didn't anticipate was Moscow traffic.

Moscow appears to have no rhyme or reason to its road system-I'm pretty sure Max drove diagonally through a line of cars onto a four or five lane highway with no visible lines to guide him. Impressive, but not exactly comforting...Once we got on, the traffic was stop and go the entire way. Ambulances couldn't even get through. We passed many apartment buildings in varying states of disrepair, a hallmark of this city, I've noticed. And there's a pharmacy and a flower shop at every corner. At the very least when I leave here I will be able to read the word "аптека" with no problems. We did eventually make it to the store but they didn't have thyme or chicken broth so we had to get creative. Katie bought flour and butter to make a rue for the chicken and then handed me a bottle of oregano and said, "Is this like thyme?" In my infinite cooking wisdom I said, "Sure!" We picked up a couple of other things (we're still learning to navigate grocery stores)-I'm trying Russian pretzels.

Well, coming out of the store, poor Max's car was giving him trouble and we wound up stranded at the grocery store and had to call good ol' Maksim to come by metro to pick us up. Of course, that took him a good hour-plenty of time for Bolshoi Max to teach us some colorful Russian. But like the loyal friend that he is, Maksim did show up to escort us home and Bolshoi Max managed to get his car home a little bit later. We were all greeted three and a half hours later than expected by poor Shelli, who had no clue what had happened. She managed to make due with our substitutes and cooked a delicious chicken and dumpling dinner. I really appreciate Maksim and Bolshoi Max-they're both such great guys, they've really taken care of us this trip. And I appreciate Shelli for cooking, especially under duress!

So, I asked for an adventure and I got one. Probably not going to try that one again anytime soon but at least the day wasn't boring! We're venturing into downtown Moscow tomorrow to see what we can find. Sounds like another adventure brewing to me...

пока!

Learning About Statistics, Russian, and Friendships

It's early in the day for me to be posting a blog so, depending on how the rest of the day goes, this may be a double-post day. But we'll see.

Over the past couple of days, I haven't really left the hostel very much. Between the dreary weather (I guess I'm gonna get used to it eventually), Russian homework and class, and statistics, I have spent the majority of my time in the classroom. But I've been working on a project with some of the Russians and it's been fun getting the chance to meet them and work with them. Like everyone else, they have been very friendly. I find it funny that I somehow thought working with them would be different than working with American students. Other than a couple of language hiccups (on both ends), they really are just like every other student I've met. I don't know why I thought it would be different-if anything, I like working with them even better! Right now while we wait for class, they're playing Mario on the computer. I guess some things really are universal haha. I will be really glad when this class is over, though. It's a very painful 4 hours...

We have a new teacher in Russian, Ludmilla Aleksandrovna, who will work with Vera. She is always smiling and likes to tease Miles, especially, about having a Siberian accent. She's quick to correct and compliment. But, man, does she give a lot of homework! Last night, the girls all gathered in Shelli's room to work on it. It probably wouldn't have taken so long if we didn't keep getting so sidetracked chatting. But it was really fun to talk and goof around in between intense Russian cursive training. Even though we've only all been together for a few days, we have already had some great conversations-it feels like we've known each other a while. Hopefully, by the time this trip is over, we will have made solid friendships that will last beyond Moscow.

After this class is over, the weekend is here. I don't know yet what it will bring but I'm excited. It's time to bust out of the hostel for a while and find an adventure!

пока!

Just a blog

Not a whole lot to blog about today. It's been a pretty bleak day without sun but it's probably been the warmest day since we've been here. Some of the snow has already melted into gray-brown slush. Supposedly, it starts getting warm here within the next month. Vera told us today that the dreary days are usually the warmer ones here. For some reason, she said, clear, sunny days are always very cold and often windy.

Today was spent mostly with work and getting things done. I feel like I've been sitting in the classroom staring at Russian cursive and excel for the entire day. Unfortunately, I didn't get out much today. But hopefully tomorrow I will make up for it.

Over dinner this evening, Elisa was telling Miles and I about her grandparents living during Stalin's era. Her grandmother lived in a little village in Siberia and during that time, if you did not travel to a city to obtain a passport by the time you were fourteen, you were not allowed to leave your village for the rest of your life. Of Elisa's family, her grandmother was the only one brave enough to leave. Elisa wants to get to the United States eventually but she says it is difficult for Russians to get visas, especially if they are traveling on their own.

Well, there's not much else to say for now and I'm still getting over this obnoxious cold so I think I'll probably get to bed early tonight. But of course, I've made that plan for the last week now and it has yet to work out...

пока!

Ice Skating

This trip has already proven to be a host of new experiences and today I got to add another one: ice skating! It was the first time I've ever gone-and what more appropriate setting than Moscow? As always, the awesome Russians Maksim and Bolshoi Maksim (we've given them nicknames to help differentiate them) were at the helm of this adventure and brought along a new friend, Christine (I'm not sure how to spell her name in the Russian fashion), who is a lot of fun. They taught us how to play a skating game and saved from falling those of us who were a little uncertain on the skates. It was such a fun group and it was an awesome time. I noticed, though, that we attracted a lot of stares. I think it's because we Americans are a very boisterous and happy group. Russians in general, I've noticed, are not a very expressive group in public, preferring to display a cooler demeanor, whereas we were all bouncing around and talking loudly. Couldn't have been more obvious if we were walking around wearing shirts that said, "Hi, We're Americans!" (not that we'd be any less obvious anyway).

More Russian language class today. By the time we're done here, I hope to be a master at writing in Russian cursive. Of course, by then all of my English cursive writing will have been completely forgotten and I'll start writing my English t's as n's like they look in Russian.

Oh, and today we found out that security guards take their duty VERY seriously. We heard this but poor Shelli found this out firsthand. She did not have her entrance card that we were given the first day and she was trying to come into the hostel but the security guard wouldn't let her. Not only would he not allow her to go upstairs (despite having her passport), she had a hard time leaving the hostel without it in order to return. So far, we haven't had any problems with this because the guards knew who we were and let us by with no problem. But the new guard tonight meant business and we all learned that there's no messing around. Russian students have to carry passports with them everywhere. They have 2 types-one for the city of Moscow (plus their student IDs and driver's licenses if they have them) and their international passports. As one of the Americans pointed out, "Russians are very well documented." Interesting to think about.

I'll add pictures of the skating later.

пoка!

Here We Go...

Today, we started our first week of classes. Russian language and statistics. Our Russian language teacher, Vera, is a kick. She's an older little Russian lady who is very nice and works at a good pace. Statistics is nothing fun to speak of but it was a good chance to meet the Russian girls, who are also very friendly.

I've been feeling under the weather since Saturday. I don't know if it's just a cold or what but it's been slowing me down and I don't like it. Yesterday, Maksim and Lilia took us to this mega mall in downtown Moscow for the day. We rode the metro-I felt like such a city slicker! It was an odd blend of Western/American and Russian. But as the evening drew on, I was getting really tired and felt like I was dragging everyone down.

Today, I woke up feeling pretty bad, too (I'm pretty sure I might have dozed off in statistics). I was very tired and a little woozy, hopefully just a symptom of lack of sleep-although I got almost a full night's sleep last night. Right now I feel better (yay meds) but I hope this bug goes away-I don't want to miss any of the Russian experience!

Katie, our final fellow American student, arrived today so it looks like this evening we will be taking her around Moscow. And by "around Moscow" I mean we will take her to the grocery store right across the street and maybe the street shops just down the street-because those are the only places we know how to get to by ourselves...

пoка!

Lunch with Lenin

So today we took a bus tour of Moscow. We saw Red Square, Lenin's Tomb, and a few other sights around the city. It was pretty cold, the coldest day so far-the wind and overcast sky didn't help. We met some more of the students we will be having class with, all of whom seem very nice. I got my picture at Lenin's tomb, something to write home about. On the square, we saw a couple of guys dressed as Stalin for people to take pictures with, which I found very amusing for some reason.

Today, though, I was feeling a little overwhelmed (again, the gray atmosphere didn't help). Between the rushing around to see the sights, meeting a lot of new people, and the general helpfulness-almost-to-a-fault of the Russians, I came back two hours ago and kind of just wanted to crash. Seeing more of the city was great-in a way, I feel like I've been here for a long time already. I credit that to the Russians who have been so friendly and welcoming but it is nice to have a little down time (especially since my sleep schedule still hasn't caught up).

Later tonight, the Russians are hanging out with us in our rooms and we will drink a few native beers and they'll show us how to cook some Russian food. It should be fun and a good way to end this otherwise somewhat hectic day. One more day to relax and then we begin class--hello Russian language and maybe statistics! Man, talk about a trip of the unexpected.

Speaking of unexpected, I still can't believe it's all happening. While I feel like I've been here forever on one hand, on the other I feel like it's all been a dream and I'm just happening to inhabit the body of some other lucky girl. It's literally a dream come true.

Oh, and finally, revelation for the day: I figured out why Russians don't smile. It's not because they don't like to, it's because they can't! When we were walking around Red Square, we'd stop to pose for pictures and I felt like I literally could not smile because my face was frozen! I'm sure the Russians feel this way, too. So, the mystery behind the Russian sternness is solved and I can sign off feeling at peace now.

пoка!

A City of Gentlemen (and Starches!)

Second day in Moscow and it has gone by so quickly!

Today we went to the аптека (drug store-Denis had to help me figure out how to type in Russian!) with Sasha and Denis to buy a few items, my first time having to figure out how to price things in rubles. It was a little crazy, Russians don't abide by too many pleasantries like "excuse me" or "sorry for almost knocking you over in the aisle." But luckily our guides watch over us like hawks. This is both good and bad. Good because they help us navigate this unfamiliar foreign city, bad because they don't let us do much of anything unsupervised-including open doors, carry items, or walk down snowy pathways (I haven't opened a door or carried my own things since I got here!). I suppose a better person should be glad to live in a city of such gentlemen and don't get me wrong, I'm not complaining. But it is a little overwhelming at first, especially for a person who is used to being a little more independent.

We are learning Russian at a fast clip and all of the Russian students are eager to help us practice so they want to improve their English, too. I just spent a good hour going over the alphabet and how to write in Cyrillic. My brain feels ready to explode but it is good, they are all good teachers.

We have yet to get on a normal eating schedule (one meal a day so far) and I haven't quite adjusted to Russian food yet but I expect that will change very quickly, especially when we start spending more and more time outside in the cold! The food is greasier or starchier or something and it is hard to find vegetables that aren't cooked in rice or with cheese. A lot of the meats are stuffed with starches, too. My chicken tonight was stuffed with potatoes. Can you say carb overload?

Tomorrow, we are going to Moscow Center and I am very excited to get to see it. Hopefully, tonight I will go to bed at a reasonable hour and start adjusting to the new time zone but we shall see. We have spent all of our evenings so far hanging out with the students and it's an opportunity I just can't bring myself to miss-even if it does result in only 4 hours of sleep!

пoка!

To Moscow We Go!

Well, I made it to Moscow!

Even though we've been here for almost 2 full days now, it doesn't seem real. From New York to Moscow took us roughly 9 hours and right away, I realized how little Russian I actually know. Everyone speaks very quickly and although the Russians in the airport were stereotypically intimidating (totally lacking anything resembling a smile), our experiences since arriving have been nothing but pleasant.

Our hostel is better than I expected, two of us to a room with a shower, toilet, and hot water, too! It appears not to have been updated since the Soviets were in power, the halls are dingy and yellow (like the toilet paper). Not really all that different from my old dorm room, actually...

We have met many Russian students already and they are all wonderful, very friendly and anxious to learn English and to help us learn Russian. Last night, we spent hours with many of the Russian students living in the hostel drinking tea and eating cake. We bantered back and forth in "Runglish"--a phrase Roma coined for his mix of Russian and English. Today we spent most of our day with a few of the Russians, especially the twins Denis and Aleksander (called Sasha), who are hilarious. Sasha referred to himself constantly as a "professional" in everything from locking our dorm room door to translating phrases into Russian. We went to one of the street markets and the grocery store to pick up a few things. After that, we spent a day marathon-learning Russian vocabulary with the twins--the trick now will be to see if I can remember any of it. But the students are great about helping us so I really hope to come back with a decent understanding of the language.

It's been a wonderful day (not even too cold-sunny and around a whopping 13 degrees). Now I'm going to go and spend some time with the Russians!

Dobri Noche!